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- February 3, 2025
- By: Shawna Ross
- in: Kempker's True Value
Remove leaves, grass or weeds along the base of the fence by mowing, raking, weeding by hand or spraying a weed killer. Place a drop cloth below or next to the fence to catch debris, dripping paint or overspray.
Clean, scrape and sand your fence with medium-grit or fine-grit sandpaper before you paint. You may want to use a pressure washer to clean the fence and blast off loose paint. You can also use a garden hose with a power nozzle, a scrub brush and a solution of detergent and water.
Finish removing loose paint using a paint scraper. Use a power sander to blend any raised paint edges into the surrounding areas. Sponge any mold or mildew spots with a 50/50 solution of bleach and water to keep mold or mildew from growing back.
Check your fence for termite or insect damage. If you find insect activity, replace the damaged wood.
To make sure your finish stands up to the elements, you’ll want to use a high-quality stain or exterior paint with UV inhibitors, such as True Value Woodsman® stain or True Value EasyCare® Ultra Premium Exterior Paint. Use a roller, pad or sprayer to paint large, flat surfaces. If you choose a sprayer, use an airless model or rent a high-volume/low-pressure (HVLP) sprayer for greater control with less overspray. Use a paintbrush to catch drips and work paint into hard-to-reach areas. For watery stains, use a stain brush, which holds more finish with less dripping.
It’s a good idea to do a yearly cleaning and touch-up of any peeling areas on your fence. If your wood fence is unfinished, consider staining it. While stain must be reapplied more often than paint, it involves less preparation.
Wear safety glasses and a dust mask or respirator when using a paint sprayer.
Clean or discard the used roller sleeve and clean the roller frame and pan with the appropriate solvent (water or paint thinner, depending on the type of covering used). Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for a thorough cleaning of spray applicators.
Clear a space to work before you get started. Discard leaves, grass or weeds along the base of the fence by mowing, raking, weeding by hand or spraying a weed killer. Protect the area by putting down a drop cloth to catch debris, paint drips or overspray.
Brush off dirt, spider webs and debris. If there are rusty spots or the fence is generally rusty, scrape off loose rust with a wire brush before applying a rust-inhibiting metal primer with a roller or sprayer.
Don’t attempt to paint a vinyl-coated chain-link fence. This type of specialized work should be done by a qualified fencing professional.
Apply paint liberally with a 1-1/2″ nap roller. Roll slowly at a 45-degree angle to work the paint into the chain weave. Have a helper follow up with an almost-dry roller. Use a brush to paint the posts, horizontal supports, gates and other hardware.
To eliminate the dripping of rollers and brushes, apply two light coats of paint with a sprayer and follow up as needed with a brush. However, you’ll be wasting paint since much of it will spray right through the fence. If you do choose a sprayer, be sure to paint on a day that’s not windy—you could end up with paint mist everywhere.
Thin paint will give better coverage on wire fencing. Thin your paint with up to one pint of solvent per gallon of paint.
For slow-drying paints, string up caution ribbons or “wet paint” signs to warn people.
Wear safety glasses and a dust mask or respirator when using a paint sprayer.
Discard disposable materials, clean the roller frame and paintbrushes with water and pick up and store your drop cloths.
Well done! Now step back and admire your fence staining or painting handiwork.
Article by: TrueValuePaint